“Best Boat with a Cat” by N&J

Vancouver, BC (Jul 12/25) – It was a classic summer day in Vancouver, cloudless blue sky, fair winds from the north-west & relatively calm seas, the ‘Spirit Bear Crew’ having prepared for this exploration with much anticipation …it was a good time to cast off and venture across the beautiful Salish Sea to Vancouver Island’s Gulf Islands. The winds picked up enough to unfurl the foresail which generated about 5 knots of speed. The tide was just turning to a flood (ie. the tide was coming in) thus a heading was set slightly south, allowing Spirit Bear to arc north-west to the intended destination of Silva Bay on Gabriola Island.

Leaving Vancouver’s English Bay, heading towards Vancouver Island…

Upon arrival after ‘threading the needle’ to navigate the small islands & hidden rocks to Silva Bay, it was discovered that anchoring in the bay would be difficult considering the preponderance of ‘private’ mooring buoys. Settling on a spot in the northern flanks of the bay, ensuring not to block the passage way used by the float planes that frequent the harbour …a firm anchor was successfully set. Watchful eyes of Jesse, tasked with making sure the float planes coming and going did not veer off course.

a delicious dinner after the crossing…

Silva Bay is situated on the south-eastern tip of Gabriola Island, not necessaily a place to come visit but a popular jumping-off point for boaters accessing the Gulf Islands or a refuge from the wind storms that can arise in Georgia Strait.

After a peaceful quiet night, N&J arose quite early to catch the slack tide at Gabriola Passage, the narrow pass between Valdez Island to the south & Gabriola Island to the north. Transiting through this access point outside of the slack tide (usually 30 mins before & after is acceptable) is wrought with risk and hazards brought on by rapid currents causing whirlpools, back-eddys & essentially ‘no steering ability’ that could ram your vessel into the rock walls if one’s timing is not perfect.

The transit was going very well, minimal current & wind, clear conditions meant for a smooth transition from the Georgia Strait side to the Pylades Channel side. Feeling quite proud of themselves, early morning hot beverages in hand, smiling in the morning crispness waning as the glow of the sun picked up steam …Spirit Bear approaching within 50 metres of completing the passage, an ominous sound came from the diesel engine, the sound of the motor struggling to keep its RPM’s up. Wide eyed now, smiles faded, J recognized what was happening (the diesel fuel filters are clogged), quickly throttled up to increase the motor speed to keep the boat moving forward to clear the pass and not be pushed backwards into the pass by the opposing current that was quickly on the rise.

The narrows of Gabriola Passage looming ahead…

What seemed like an eternity (though in reality only 10-15 seconds) Spirit Bear managed to gain some speed and was steered into Degnan Bay (northwest of Gabriola Passage) before the engine gave its final sputter and shut down completely. The first thought was to drop anchor as far from the pass as possible. But glancing at the water, they saw the current had already shifted and was quickly building strength, ready to drag the boat back the way it had come. Thinking beyond the obvious, the crew jumped into action …N spotted a private dock nearby and took the helm, while J rushed to hang fenders on the port side (on the ‘left side’ for you landlubbers) and ready the dock lines. With calm precision, N manoeuvred Spirit Bear alongside the float—perfectly, and without any power.

Emergency dock stop with Gabriola Passage in the distance…

The aftermath of the ‘diesel fuel filter’ change, a messy, smelly endeavour…

With a ‘wave and a hello’ the owner of the dock coming down to offer assistance, none needed but thanked for the use of dock. J being thorough in his tool box provisions had all the necessary items and spare filters on-board. The diesel smell intense down in the engine room J quickly completed the grimy task and thirty minutes later Spirit Bear was back in service, happily motoring away.

The loose plan over the next few days was to make their way to Ganges Harbour for Canada Day, so after checking out Pirate’s Cove Marine Park (MP) on De Courcy Island, the Secretary Islands & Retreat Cove on Galiano Island for future visits …it was decided to carry down into Montague Harbour MP on Galiano.

The sail down Trincomali Channel was blissful, gentle winds guiding Spirit Bear to Montague Harbour, where the scene was magical. Hundreds of boats in the bay, some on marine park buoys, all types & sizes with the larger mega-yachts anchoring further out. The water glistening in the sunshine, it’s a place that feels deeply alive yet still peaceful.

Lots of ‘flag regalia’ flown during Canada Day Week…

After settling in for the evening, the next day brought an outing to the provincial campsite, with its hiking trails and shell beach on the far side of the peninsula. This was a particularly special occasion as this was Jesse’s very first dinghy ride!! Jesse wide-eyed with a touch of nervousness was securely seated in his go-kart and carefully transferred onto the dinghy. Jesse couldn’t believe his eyes, the dinghy and crew skimming smoothly across the water, not even a meow of protest could escape. The newly purchased Torqeedo electric outboard motor provided an exceptionally quiet ride (no loud gas motor anymore), helping ease much of Jesse’s innate fear. Rewarded with hiking the trails, climbing the trees, and stalking the squirrels, Jesse deciding that the transport across the bay over water was worth it!

Jesse’s Inaugural Dinghy Ride…

Montague Harbour Marine Park & Campground…

Jesse happy to be on land again, exploring the campsite at Montague Harbour…

Spying a mirage of colourful kayaks along the southern shoreline of Montague N decided to jump into the inflatable kayak to check out the action. The smell of grilled food wafting from the shoreline enticed N further to meander in to the local restaurant called the Crane and Robin. Perched right above the public dock looked like a perfect place to enjoy a bite and watch the parade of boats through the harbour so with a quick paddle back N encouraged J to come along. While seated gazing out onto the magical scene, a feast of seafood tacos & a spectacular burger was enjoyed. Making a plan for their next visit here will include the “colourful” bus ride to The Hummingbird Pub on the other side of the island.

The Crane and Robin Pub on Galiano Island at Montague Harbour…

Dinner ain’t complete without dessert…

After 3 glorious nights at Montague, the short trip (2 hours) to Salt Spring Island was easy, light winds from the south propelled the sailboat along nicely, guiding the craft all the way to Ganges Harbour Marina. After a quick radio call to the wharf-master, a slip was arranged. Needless to say Jesse was anxious & excited to finally get some dock time, stretching those legs, looking for some ‘tender green grass’ to eat (a cat needs his salad from time to time).

By chance the Vancouver Rowing Club (which N&J are members) was holding a Canada Day Celebration at the club’s outstation in the same marina & space was available for Spirit Bear, so after the 1 night at the regular dock, they were able to secure a spot at the VRC dock for the next 3 nights …BONUS!!!

The Canada Day festivities presented by the Rowing Club featured each member proudly showing off their decorated boats, with each one winning a fun, improvised award on the spot. Spirit Bear was quickly named the top recipient of ‘Best Boat with a Cat”. The evening brought music and a full table displaying culinary delights, beverages, and camaraderie on the dock.

Canada Day birthday cake in Ganges at an antique car show …

News travels fast when your on a small island and with that both N&J had the opportunity for surprise visits with N’s Aunt Rose, and Susanna a musician aquaintance of J’s from Bowen Island. Renewing connections in a place like this made for such a great day.

J marks July 4th with a sombre message…

It was bittersweet to leave Ganges Harbour after such a perfect visit to Salt Spring, lots to see in the quaint little town, great shops & restaurants …ideal weather. But the good news is N&J can always come back and will make a point of coordinating their next visit with the renowned Salt Spring Island Saturday Market.

Traveling south out of the harbour, then heading around the southern tip of the island into Satellite Channel to the west. Vancouver Island & BC Ferries Swartz Bay Terminal on the left as they headed towards Cowichan Bay on the main island. Calling ahead to the wharf manager, a slip at the public wharf was secured for the evening. Not as much of a marina in stark contrast to the previous nights, this marina was filled with working vessels (commercial fishers, tugboats, etc) at each slip. The smell of diesel and heavy oil permeating the air. A stroll down the waterfront to see the various shops & cafes, stopping at the local marine pub for a quaint dinner out on the patio,

Evening sky at Cowichan Bay Public Dock…

A quiet night was blessed with another beautiful summer day on the coast. An early start, heading northwards up the western side of Salt Spring Island towards Sansum Narrows, a winding passage between Vancouver Island & Salt Spring Island. This narrows, although not officially a pass can be difficult to transit if the tides, currents & winds are present, so picking a ‘slack time’ to travel through this area is advisable …thus the early start out of ‘Cow Bay’.

passage through Sansum Narrows…

After coming through the narrows, and thankfully uneventful, passing Maple Bay on the left where N&J purchased Spirit Bear in November of 2023.

Carrying on over the northwestern tip of Salt Spring Island, the course was set to sail to Wallace Island Marine Park. An amazing little pocket where many boats can anchor with their sterns tied to installed rings in the rocks on the outer rock boundary of Princess Cove. The water clear blue while tiny crabs side step in the shallows. There are great hiking trails along the shoreline and back deep into the rain forest bringing one into another much sheltered bay with many boats anchored and a brand new dock. Getting ashore exploring the forest and spying the water from different angles was energizing and a great way to stretch the legs.

Spirit Bear at anchor in Princess Cove, Wallace Island Marine Park…

N doing some snorkeling… while Jesse kept a watchful eye on the action in the water 🙂

On the 2nd day at Wallace Island, an early evening wind storm from the south hit Spirit Bear broadside causing the anchor to drag. After a few unsuccessful attempts to reset, and itching for more adventure it was decided to head to Thetis Island for the evening. With long days of sun, the journey was quick & easy with a strong south-west breeze blowing. A quick radio call to the Telegraph Harbour Marina, and a slip was arranged.

Telegraph Harbour Marina on Thetis Island…

Pulling in to Thetis was exciting …so beautiful. The dock full of fellow boaters who rushed over to help grab the lines and give a warm welcome. The Telegraph Harbour Marina had such a cool vibe reminding of the family-like atmosphere of Sully’s on Sullivan’s Crossing. The outdoor covered space for dances and BBQ’s, gifted with burgees from yacht clubs who had enjoyed their events at this beautiful piece of paradise. Enjoying a night here marking this another hot spot surely to entice the Spirit Bear crew back.

Abundant sealife along the docks… dancing starfish!!!

Seafood Pasta onboard, Chef N’s specialty…

On-board menu changed daily: Fresh pizza lunch & french toast w/blueberries for breakie…

The Spirit Bear’s Galley was always serving up something delectable…

As N&J kept a clear eye on the weather forecast it was looking like their time away was closing in and it was time to start heading back to the mainland. Today’s destination would be a repeat visit to Silva Bay, this time to the VRC outstation located at the Silva Bay Marina. While waiting for the slack tide to make it through the pass at Gabriola, N decided to try her luck at fishing and was successful! After a quick photo this colourful salmon was placed back in the water and without hesitation quickly swam away with exuberance, happy to live another day.

Nice salmon caught in Pylades Channel…

The transit through Gabriola Passage was completely uneventful, other than a change in the weather with cloudy skies, a brisk wind & rain. It showered all night, the sleep-inducing ‘pitter-patter’ quietly lulling the traveling threesome to a restful sleep.

Looking back at Gabriola Island…

The return to Vancouver is not by happen-chance, it is a thoroughly ‘thought out’ process relying on weather forecast (winds) & sea-state reports (current wind & wave height) on Georgia Strait. The beauty of retirement & not ‘having to be anywhere’ works perfectly for ‘picking & choosing’ when to cross this 20 ‘nautical mile’ (about 35kms) body of water. In this case the situation was ideal for a comfortable return back to the Lower Mainland, calm seas, essentially no wind & welcoming blues skies.

Caught just off the ‘Bell Buoy’ near Vancouver…

A short diversion interrupted the course back to the slip in False Creek, N wanted to try her hand at fishing near the bell buoy (a local favourite for fisher-people). Another success and again after a swift photo this beauty was gently returned to enjoy another day.

Jesse spies land, itching for terra firma…

The city in view and final preparations underway, Jesse’s anticipation grew… the arrival back at home port was easy with a smooth return to dock. Spirit Bear securely tied up marking the end of a ’12 day’ journey through the Gulf Islands and the beginning of a well deserved rest 🙂